Studies Show Antidessicant Sprays Not Effective

“Anti-desiccant and anti-transpirant sprays are often recommended to prevent winter burn. Most studies, however, have shown them to be ineffective,” say University of Minnesota researchers Bert T Swanson and Richard Rideout in their article Protecting Trees and Shrubs Against Winter Damage.

One of the main reasons they fail is that they must be reapplied regularly, like sunscreen reapplication, to even have a chance of protecting shrubs.  That’s a lot of spraying and a lot of chemicals, so make sure you know all your options before risking your favorite plants.

Just thought you should know…

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Should I prune now?

photo courtesy of apps.rhs.org.uk

NO!!  With a few exceptions.  To remember what and when to prune, ask yourself these questions first:

Will the plant have time to put out new growth before winter arrives?  If you answered yes to this question then No, don’t prune.

Is there something that looks like a bud on this plant?  If yes, then don’t prune, it’s probably a flower bud.

Is this new growth?  If yes, then don’t prune it in early spring.  The plant may have used a lot of energy making that growth and it needs the leaves and stems it just made to produce some energy before you whack it off.  Early spring growth is important to plants for this reason.  Unlike the rest of us, they don’t spent the winter kicking back ice cream, chips and dip, and soda (yes, you did-remember that great Super Bowl party?).

At the very least, not pruning is the better option if you’re still not sure.  Watch out for overeager “tidy-ers”, I’ve lost several shrubs to my overeager tidy-ers (who shall remain nameless)!!

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Wrapping a trellis for winter

As you can see in the photo, trellises covered in vines are easy to wrap, provided you have the right tools.  I’m using a handy ShrubJacket custom sheet ( www.plumstone.com), which is long and wide enough to protect this lovely copper structure and the roses climbing on it.  A climber that is exposed to the wind on all sides is especially vulnerable to wind damage, dessication and freezes.  Use rakings and clippings of leaves and other “junk” to cover the soil inside the ShrubJacket.  This layer of green garbage will lessen heaving and cracking of the soil (and plants’ roots) during periods of rapidly freezing and thawing weather cycles.

Wrapping a rosebush vine before winter will keep it looking amazing all year.

Ah, now that that’s done go inside, make yourself a cup of tea and dream of spring blossoms.

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What to Wrap in Winter?

Wondering what’s worth the effort?

Anything that gets chewed on by d*#! (yes, that stands for deer, what else?)

Boxwoods, hydrangea, lilac, rosebushes, Arborvitae, any broad leafed evergreen like rhododendrons and azaleas, fig trees, camellia, larch, and many more

Anything that has turned brown and ugly in previous the winters, or failed to bloom as usual.

Anything you don’t want to replace in the spring!

Yikes! Count your garden off the tour with those ugly brown leaves.

Here’s an excellent link for those of you who would like more info…

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-604.html

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To keep roses healthy, protect them from Winter

Roses in summer

The rose has long been considered the most beautiful flower in the world.  According to myth, the lovely Rhodanth was so pursued by suitors that she fled to the temple of Diana, the huntress, who turned her into a rose and her pursuers into thorns.  To keep your roses legend-worthy, I’ve distilled the vast amount of information down to some key points:

Wait until several days of good, hard freeze before covering them.  The cold temps will help ward off bacteria, fungus, and other nasties, so they don’t attack your plant.

One can wait until spring to prune all but the longest and most unwieldy stems (to prevent wind whipping).

Cover the base of the plant with about 10 inches of mulch to promote even freezing and thawing.  It is constant freeze and thaw that does the damage (this is why potholes form on the road) to plants’ roots and stems.

Wrap the plant to protect it from wind, hungry animals, and to help stabilize the temperature around the mulch/plant area.

Here’s an informative link from the U of IL with more information.

Good luck!

http://urbanext.illinois.edu/roses/winter.cfm

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Fuschias!

Wow, I thought peonies were pretty great until I checked out the new varieties of fuschias

at my local lawn and garden center.  These shade plants are so pretty up close that each bloom is a work of art.  They look like cupcakes with a swirl of thick frosting made by a master chef.  No, I didn’t taste them, but it’s tempting.  The blooms in the photo below had fallen off my plants while in transport from the nursery and I couldn’t bear to throw them away.  I tucked them in a little glass and they’re still perfect a week later…

fuschias float!

So I bought more….

And now that I’m besotted with them, you should be too.  Here’s more info:

Fuschias like a bit of sun, preferably in the morning, but don’t put them in hot afternoon sun.  Watering is very important-but do not drown them.  Fuschias will revive if wilting and then watered, but not if they are consistently overwatered, so wait until the soil feels dry before dousing.

They will also overwinter if brought inside, but I haven’t tried it yet.

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Peony Perfection

What is a garden for, if not for breathtaking plants like these? This is my favorite flower, as it is many peoples', with no exceptions or close seconds. If you think the word flower should come with a picture of a peony next to it in the dictionary, let me know and we'll start a club. They can't be matched in fragrance, beauty or foliage, by even the noble rose. Now that I have that off my chest lets talk about these hard and fast rules-These are genteel ladies, like grandma, so don't bounce them around your yard like Katy Perry's cha-chas. Once grandma is seated you don't ask her to try out every other chair, so don't ask your peonies to try every spot in your yard. It could take years before you see blooms if you do. Here's what to check first to be sure they're in the best spot --Sun. They need at least 6 hours a day. Get out your SunStick and measure please, unless you have solar superpowers that tell you where the sun is at all times in your yard. And don't even believe the hype on the tag-they don't bloom in shade no matter what the grower says to the contrary. Next, you might want to check your pH, as the best growth occurs within a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5, with a deep layer of rich organic matter. Peonies will tolerate a large range of soil types, but not wet feet, tree roots or sand. Resist the temptation to tuck them lower in the soil than they are already planted in their pot-they like to be covered with no more than 2 inches soil. If you see brown spots on the leaves in midsummer you probably have a fungus. Buy a spray from your local nursery center, after taking in a leaf for them to confirm the diagnosis. Don't bother asking for a diagnosis at a big box store-or you could end up treating your squirrels for memory loss. And that's just a waste of time. Remember to stake peonies with hoops early in spring or they'll land in the dirt during a rainstorm and this is very sad. We will have to call the plant police on you. Once you get them started though, they will bloom for generations, reliably and regally.

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Rhododendrons/Azaleas Not Blooming?

If your rhododendrons dont look like these, read on.

First of all, I feel your pain.  Take a deep breath and count to ten.  I know, I know, you’ve been looking forward to them all winter long and now they’re just green and what you thought were buds turned into new leaf sprouts?

Several things to check off first.

  • Did you prune your shrub since it last bloomed?  If so, you may have trimmed the new flowers off by accident.
  • Is your plant getting enough sunlight? Although azaleas and rhododendrons are considered by some to be “shade lovers” they will not bloom in full shade.  What they enjoy is some protection from full sun, which can bleach the flowers.  But, as long as they are well watered, even full sun is not as detrimental as full shade.
  • Do you have molds, pH-imbalance or other systemic problems?  Here are photos of these-

    Chlorosis-note the green veins with the yellow leaf. Courtsey of Purdue Ag Extension

These brown spots are the result of winter burn.  These beautiful, broad leaves need water in the winter, and when the ground is frozen and the wind blows, plants quickly become dried out.  The leaves suffer and will not grow back.  They may be trimmed or left to fall off on their own.

winter burn on leaves

Great websites for more details=http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6825

http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/weeklypics/2-2-09.html

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That’s What?! How to ID your Spring Growth

Beware the early spring garden and all it’s mysteries.  Although a straggly assortment of green tips may be emerging from your beds, resist the temptation to pull everything “weedy-looking”.  Most of what you see you have probably planted on purpose!  Here is a visual guide to some common garden plants and what their foliage looks like.
I will start with the thistle versus the poppy.  I don’t think most people would mistake the thistle for anything but a weed, but after having seen the thistle how many of us would pull the poppy too, thinking it was the same plant?

Beware the Thistle. Use gloves and pull from underneath the leaves.

Poppies-do not pull out of your garden!

Peony

Daisies

Weed-do not confuse with daises. These leaves are not rounded at the tip, but pointy.

Ajuga,also called bugleweed is a spring-blooming ground cover

Siberian Iris

Bearded Iris

Columbine

Ladys Mantle

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Growing in Less Than Great Soil Part I-Sand

If you can grow this, sand can't be too bad. Lavender, ahh.

Sand=tiny bits of stone.  Soil is alive with so many creatures its an ecosystem unto itself, something that little bits of stone will never achieve.  Sand does add structure-water winds its way through easily to drain and oxygen can get around.  But organic matter is what grabs onto nutrients and allows the soil to hold moisture.  With nutrients and moisture there is something onto which bacteria, small insects and worms can latch, and now you have a living place for your plants.

If soil were a soup, chicken broth would be the organic matter, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium would be the spices, carrots and celery the sand.  You’ve got a little crunch, flavor, and a place to blend them both together.

Here’s a recipe for super sandy.  Add 2 inches om, or organic matter, and mix it into the top 5 or 6 inches of your bed.  To plant shrubs and trees you will need to mix enough om for the top 18 inches at least.  Totally worth it.  A great source of organic matter is all the stuff you rake from the yard throughout the summer like grass clippings, dead plant stalks and leaves.

If your yard is too tidy for that stuff, you will have to buy it.  It’s heavy so be prepared to bring someone or something strong to lift and strew.  Or just hurt your back like to rest of us and suffer for a day or two.  I did not even mean to rhyme that, but it works doesn’t it?

What flowers grow well in sandy soils: Cacti.

Just kidding, we can do better than that-try daylillies to start.  I know they’re not exciting but the deep taproots help it survive anything short of complete armageddon.  You can always cut the tops off later and leave the roots in the ground to decompose, adding om.

Iris can grow in sand, but usually only if its also wet and acidic, so read the fine print on purchased plants.  Lavender can be grown in sandy soils, so that’s a definite plus.

A good short term is to keep the beds thoroughly watered and add some fertilizer to the water to add the nutrients the soils cannot yet provide.  If you don’t bother to add organic matter the plants might get along, but you’ll spend more money and time watering and fertilizing, and I know you know what those chemicals and water usage means to the environment so I’m not even going to mention it.

Remember to always check your sun.  Lavender needs bucket loads of it, and that’s not negotiable.

Keep that soup in mind when planting and think about what you would want to eat if you were a plant.  A diet of raw carrots is borrrrr-ing.

Trust me, as a woman, I’ve tried it.

Posted in beautiful gardens, Fertilizing, Nitrogen Levels, Phosphorus Level, Soil preparation, Spring to do's | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment